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Dual Sport & Electrical FAQ - ProCycle

Q:

Can I get the wiring harness without the handlebar switch?

I already have your mini-handlebar switch, horn and mini LEDs front and rear. I was wondering, do you sell the wiring harness without the handlebar switch?

A:

Sorry, no. When we make our harnesses they are hard wired with the switch. Our harness production doesn’t lend itself to making a harness without the switch being integrated.

Q:

How to get second stator wire (if your system only has one!)

I am installing the regulator/rectifier unit and the wiring diagram says to wire the two yellow wires with the two power wires coming out of the stator. My bike only has ONE wire coming out of the stator so should I wire the one stator wire to both rectifier wires or just one of them and leave the other blank?

A:

If your stator has only one output wire then it is internally grounded. One end of the lighting coil winding comes out of the stator and the other end is grounded directly to the stator plate. What you will have to do is "float the ground". To do this you need to remove the stator and find where the other end of the stator coil wire connects to the stator plate. This would be the ground. Cut that wire and solder a short extension onto it. Now you have 2 lighting output wires! Connect each one to a yellow regulator/rectifier wire and you are set to go. It doesn't matter which goes where, just as long as they both connect to a yellow wire on the input side of the regulator/rectifier unit. Click here to go to the Trail Tech website and see their excellent wiring diagram.

Q:

Will your handlebar switch handle 60 watts?

I wanted to know how much wattage your handlebar switch and mini-handlebar switch will handle for the headlight. Also, do both headlight wires have power to them when the switch is on high beam? I have two 55 watt bulbs, so if I wired one to the high and one to low, would they both be on when the switch was on high beam?

A:

Our handlebar switches will handle 60 watts just fine. We have some customers using them to run 100 watt lights but I think that is pushing it. When the switch is on high beam, it is only powering the high beam bulb, not both bulbs. A standard headlight bulb would die quickly with power to both beams on high.

Q:

Does your wiring harness have a connection for the front brake switch?

A:

Our harness doesn't have a separate front brake switch connection. To use a front brake switch all you have to do is connect it in parallel with the rear brake switch connection - 2 wires.

Q:

Can the headlight connector can be changed to a H3 style plug in?

A:

Sure, you can certainly use a 3 prong H3 plug for the headlight.

Q:

What all do I need to run a HID headlight?

Can a HID light kit be hooked directly into my bike's lighting coil?

A:

In addition to a lighting coil you would need a regulator/rectifier and a battery. The HID ballast needs a constant source of 12 volt DC and the lighting coil by itself puts out a variable AC voltage. You will probably have to make a small modification to the lighting coil itself (float the ground ) to allow the regulator/rectifier to operate properly.

Q:

How do I wire-up the mechanical drum brake switch?

I ordered the drum brake stop light switch, but I'm a little bit confused. It does not have any wires protruding from it and there are no apparent terminals. Can you fill me in if I'm missing something here. Thanks!

A:

The 2 screws on the side are for attaching the wires.

Q:

Do I get a wiring diagram with my for the build your own harness kits?

If I buy a dual sport kit without the harness, does it come with a wiring diagram?

A:

There is not a wiring diagram, but the handlebar switch does come with a chart that tells what each wire does. You can design your own wiring harness from that. We recommend only people familiar with electrical work attempt to make their own harness.

Q:

Do you have a dual sport kit that includes a battery?

A:

You can add our 12v rectifier/regulator and battery to any of these kits. We recommend running everything on AC without a battery unless there is a specific reason you need to have a battery system.

Q:

Will your kit work on my XR250R without a battery?

I am looking into converting my 1987 Honda XR250R to a street legal bike. I really like your dual-sport kit and am very interested in purchasing it. Will I need to modify my bike at all? I am worried about the electrical system. My bike is completely stock. Can you provide any information as to what I would need to do to make this work for me?

Also, would it be possible to order the Universal Kit #1 with the UFO upgrade kit? Does that upgrade simply replace the head, brake/tail, and turns with the two piece front and rear as shown on the site?

I keep finding other kits for the XR like mine that run around $480-500. But they also include a battery and voltage regulator. Are these items that I will need? Or will your kit get me up and running with just the kit? I don't need anything to be on if the engine is not running (not a requirement in Nevada). So would the battery and voltage regulator just be excess stuff?

A:

You won't have to make any modifications to your bike in order to use our dual-sport kit. Yes, the upgrade substitutes the UFO head and tail lights for the standard headlight, taillight and turn lights.

We designed our kits to be as simple as possible. In most states you don't need to demonstrate that the lights work with the engine off so we only sell the rectifier/regulator and battery as separate items. There is a trade-off. Running just the AC system (no battery) the horn isn't as loud and the headlight may flicker when the turn signals are flashing. On the plus side, you don't have to find a place to mount the battery and the rectifier/regulator which can be quite a challenge on some bikes. With our system you can always add the battery and rectifier/regulator any time you want to.

Q:

How do I hook up a horn on my CRF450X?

I have a CRF450X and wanted to attach a working horn. A friend of mine mentioned running a lead from the battery directly to the horn and then attaching a kill switch that would complete the circuit by supplying the ground. Would this put a drain on the battery even though it is not a complete circuit until the kill switch is pressed? What are the wiring connections on the horn?

A:

There would be no drain on the battery except when the horn is honking. There are 2 terminals on the horn; one for power, one for ground.

Q:

How do I hook up the Vapor?

I was wondering what kind of wiring the Vapor unit has that has to be hooked up. Does one or two need to be hooked up to the alternator? Coil?

A:

It is all pretty simple - there is a wire to the magnetic pickup for the speedo, a wire to the coil for rpm, another connection for power to light the panel (AC or DC) and a fourth connection for engine temperature. All connections are simple and straightforward. Complete instructions are included with the unit.

Q:

Trying to dual sport my KX500

I have a 1985 KX500 I am trying to convert to dual sport use. I found your site on a search and the item below appears to be what I need. Can you tell me (I’m not too hot on electrics) is this a replacement of the generator coil or an external additional one? Is the installation fairly straight forward? If not, I will I end up with wires everywhere!

A:

It is an additional coil that mounts to the stator plate under the flywheel. Installation is pretty simple. There will only be 2 wires. You will also need the AC voltage regulator to protect the lights from high voltage blowouts. This is highly recommended for any bike that lacks a battery or it's own regulator. Click here to see a photo of a really cool KX500 dual sport!

Q:

What do I need to dual sport my CRF450R3?

I'm planning to convert my 2003 CRF450R3 to make it street legal. If I purchase the universal dual sport conversion kit you sell, what else do I need? Will I need these too: light coil, 12V AC headlight regulator, 12V regulator/rectifier and a 12V sealed battery?

Is the 75W stator you sell is compatible with other CRF450 specific kits that say they require Electrex M699-20-07 75W stator?

A:

The first thing you will need is a lighting stator. After that, what you need depends on the type of system you require. Does your state require that your lights be able to stay on when the motor is not running? Most states do not check, but just in case, you want to be legal, so you will require a DC system with a battery so you will need require the rectifier/regulator and battery. Should your state only require that the lights work, then we really recommend you stay with an AC system because it is much more efficient, there is no battery to charge and it is simpler as well. For an AC system you will require the AC voltage regulator to prefer to see people run an AC system because it is more efficient - no battery to charge. It is simpler too.

Yes, our stator is compatible with the Electrex M699-20-07 75W stator.

Q:

My battery does not stay charged, why?

The 75W stator I bought for my CRF450 does not keep the battery charged while running the lights. Could the stator be defective? Any suggestions for a charging system that works? Do I have to use a different flywheel to get 75W out of it?

A:

I need a little more information to give you a good answer. Like; what headlight are you using? What rectifier/regulator? What kind of battery?

You have to keep in mind that the 75 watt rating for the stator is max output and available power will be less in the lower rpm ranges. For the DC system like you are running, if you have a 55 watt headlight and a 15 watt taillight (70 watts total) that only leaves you 5 watts to charge the battery and that is not enough. I usually figure at least 20-25 watts for maintaining battery charge. That means you can safely run a 35 watt headlight and a standard 15 watt taillight (50 watts total). An LED bulb in the taillight can save enough power to make the difference between charging and draining the battery.

I prefer to see people run an AC system because it is more efficient - there is no battery to charge. It is simpler too. We rarely see a defective lighting stator but it could be possible. The manufacturer has a good troubleshooting technical department.

Q:

Can I put a Vapor unit on my TL1000S streetfighter?

Just wondering if there is a way to use a Vapor Speedo unit on a 1997 TL1000S that I have turned into a Streetfighter and would like to use this unit. Is it possible and what would I need?

A:

Yes, we have several customers who have installed Vapor units on their street machines. The 'universal' kit has the most flexibility. You shouldn't need anything else.

Q:

Do you have a dual sport kit for my TTR125?

I want to put a lighting kit on my TTR125 so I can drive it on the street. What components do I need and what will it cost? My bike is COMPLETELY stock. Also, if I were to try to change the gearing to have a higher top speed for the highway, what would I need?

A:

First you would need to get your stock stator rewound to incorporate a lighting coil to power the lights. There are several folks that can do this for you and one of the best is Baja Designs. Once you have power for the lights you will also need a voltage regulator and our complete universal dual sport kit. We sell a chain and sprocket set for the taller gearing as well.

Q:

Do I need a stator for a Vapor on my YZ125?

I would like to buy a Vapor tachometer/speedometer for my 2002 Yamaha YZ125. Do I need other parts, like a lighting coil, to install the speedometer? Can you deliver parts to Finland?

A:

A lighting coil is not required to operate the Vapor because it has an internal battery to supply the needed power. However, if you were to add a lighting coil, the Vapor can take advantage of the additional power by giving a brighter backlight on the display screen and increased battery life.

Yes, we ship parts worldwide everyday! Shipping a Vapor to Finland will come to $39.

Q:

Dual sport kit questions

I have some questions on your dual sport kits.

  1. How are the head light assemblies fastened to the bike? Are mounting kits included (all three models)?
  2. What is the wattage of the high/ low beam of the headlight (all models)?
  3. What bulbs do they use?
  4. Is a pigtail (wiring) provided?
  5. What is the connector (wiring) required for these headlights.
A:

The answers to your questions are:

  1. Headlights are held on by rubber straps that wrap around the fork tubes. No mounting kit is needed.
  2. Headlight bulb is 45w/40w. The bulb is Narva BA20d. The same bulb used in older Honda XRs and most single bulb aftermarket off-road headlights. The Baja Designs headlight uses a 60/55 H4 bulb.
  3. The headlights do not come with wiring.
  4. Standard push-in wire terminals.
Q:

Do your dual sport kits have DOT approval?

Hello, I was looking at your universal dual sport kits and I was wondering if the lights (headlights, taillight, turnsignals) are DOT approved, or do you have to exchange them with the UFO lights for them to be DOT approved?

A:

The standard kit lights do NOT have DOT approval numbers on them. They are CE approved which is the European equivalent of DOT. We can upgrade a kit to include the Baja Designs headlight and turn signals which do carry DOT numbers. The only DOT taillight we have is the UFO unit with the integrated turn signals. Those turn signals however do not carry DOT numbers. Most states do not inspect lights for DOT numbers but instead only have a requirement that all the lights be operational. Whether you need DOT items will depend on the requirements of your state. On any dirt bike to dual sport conversion there are many other items that will not carry DOT approval numbers that a street machine would normally have, like brake hoses, rims, exhaust system, etc.

Q:

Why does the horn switch on my new combo switch not work?

I just got around to wiring up new handlebar combo switch I got from you guys and found the horn switch on this unit to not work.

A:

It is a common mistake to wire the horn backwards. Power should go to the horn first then to the switch. Pushing the horn button connects it to ground completing the circuit.
First run power to the horn then connect the pink wire to the other horn terminal. The black wire (marked horn and kill switch ground) completes the circuit. The black wire (horn/kill switch ground) from the switch does need to be connected to ground.

If you are absolutely sure it is connected properly and the horn still does not work, please contact us about exchanging your equipment.

Q:

Hello, I am trying to put together a dual sport bike as cheap as I can on my 1993 XR600R. I have installed an XR650L taillight assembly along with a hydraulic rear brake switch and I have the running and brake light working, but when I apply the brake while riding, my headlight gets very dim. I have no battery, so my question to you is do I need a 12V AC headlight regulator and/or a rectifier with a battery?

I'm in Illinois we don't need turn signals, and I have an electronic horn and a mountain bike speedometer, so the only thing I have to power is the head/taillight. Also it's a kick start as you know.

A:

The headlight dimming is due to the fact that the XR stator has very limited output. The simplest solution would be to replace your taillight bulb with a LED type bulb. LEDs draw very little power and won’t cause the headlight to dim. Another route would be to install a high output stator.

Q:

Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram for viewing?

I am looking at purchasing the dual sport combination kit for my 1978 Yamaha XT 500E. Is it possible to send me an actual wiring diagram so I can use it to wire my XT? I’m not very mechanically inclined and I would like purchase the unit but I’m afraid I wouldn’t be able to install it.

A:

We don't have a wiring diagram. We build our harnesses on a wiring board with a test switch for each circuit. It is such a simple configuration we never have needed to draw a diagram other than the early sketches we made to design the layout of the wiring board. If you want to build your own harness the handlebar switch comes with a key on the packaging that tells what each wire does. You can see that key by clicking on the picture of the handlebar switch.

Q:

Do you have dual sport kits for XR Honda's?

I was checking out your web site for the dual sport conversion kit. I did not see a kit for a 2002 Honda XR400 or for any of the XR650's. Do you carry any for these models? Also, I was wondering if you include a speedo in the kit? I can only imagine that one would be required for DOT.

A:

Our kits are universal. They are designed to work on any bike with power for lights including the XR400 and 650. We also offer the Vapor speedometer unit though we don’t include it in our kit because our customers tend to have very different needs and the requirements vary considerably between states.

Q:

50 watt stator work for a DC system?

I'm curious if the stator you offer on the website will work to build a DC system on a 2000 YZ426F. Is it the Moose stator? How many leads are there and what are the colors? Will it work for an AC system? Do you include installation instructions?

I'm planning to power a 35w headlight and the rest are all LEDs. I'm mostly concerned about the headlight dimming at idle.

A:

With only a max of 50 watts available the stock stator would not be suitable for charging a battery for a DC system. However it will work fine for powering an AC system. Yes, Moose, Electrex, Electrosport, they are all from the same manufacturer. I don't have one of the stators here with me today that I can look at, but as I recall there are 2 lighting wires. 1 wire or 2 wires, it all amounts to the same thing. The stators with one wire have the second wire internally grounded - so you just use ground as the second wire.

With a max of 50 watts available you can expect the headlight to dim at idle. Using an LED taillight will help. LED turn signals will present their own problems. The electronic flashers that will work with LED signals need a DC power source to function properly. You can use a standard flasher with resistors to flash the LED signals but then you will be drawing the same amount of current as incandescent signals. The resistors will generate some heat so make sure you mount them where they can get airflow.

Q:

Handlebar switch spins on my bars, how do I fix?

I purchased a dual sport kit for my 2007 XR650R and I just got started installing it. The handlebar switch does not tighten on my stock handle bars, it just spins when it is as tight as it will get. Do you have a fix for this issue?

A:

There are 2 small rubber pieces included in the box with the switch and harness. Those rubber inserts have to be installed inside the switch housing to allow it to tighten to the bar.

Q:

AC vs. DC system?

I was wondering, would your dual sport kit work on a Husqvarna WR 250, 2001 model? Also, I noticed that it says that the bike needs a lighting coil. My bike has one, but has a lot of wires cut off it (bike was bought 2nd hand without any lights), is it still possible to use the kit if I do some soldering?

Do the two leads for the battery/AC power connect to the coil? Where does the voltage regulator come in? If I were to put a battery into the circuit, will wiring it in be difficult?

Lastly, what would be the approximate cost to ship a kit to Lindfield, New South Wales, Australia? How long will it take to ship?

A:

As far as the lighting coil goes you just need a source of 12 volt power. If your lighting output is working the only other thing you may need is a voltage regulator. As long as you’ve got 12 volts available you can run our kit. (That says nothing of what repairs to the stock wiring you will have to make!)

A lighting coil puts out AC power. Without a regulator the voltage will vary with RPM. A typical lighting coil will make over 100 volts at high rpm. This will of course blow out your lights if it is not regulated. If you want to run a battery you will need a rectifier/regulator instead of just a simple AC regulator. The rectifier/regulator will connect in parallel between the AC output and the battery with the dual sport harness connecting directly to the battery. However, we don't recommend trying to run a battery system unless you have at least 75 watts available from your lighting coil. Any less than that and there is not enough juice left to keep the battery charged. If you can get away with it, an AC system is your better bet.

Shipping to NSW, Australia will come to about $45 USD

Q:

Is my key switch working correctly?

Was installing my dual sport kit this weekend and most everything went as expected. However, I believe I have a defective key switch because in the OFF position the switch has continuity (closed) and with it in the ON position the switch has no continuity (open). So, I had soldered it in series with the little push button MAIN ON button on my WR via the harness wires under the tank and was surprised to find the LED indicator only comes on when the switch is in the OFF position. This would not be such as a problem (just remember the damn thing works backwards) but the key can only be removed in the OFF position. Seems I need to get a replacement switch that works as expected.

A:

The key switch is intended to be wired into the kill switch circuit. When you push your kill button it grounds the primary side of the ignition (continuity through the button). Wire it in parallel with your kill button and it will function as expected not allowing the motor to run unless the key is in the on (open circuit) position.

Q:

How in the HONK do I wire my new horn?

I just bought a combination switch off your website and cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to wire the horn in. How do I get power to the horn through the switch?

A:

The switch grounds the horn when you push the button. First run power to the horn then connect the pink wire to the other horn terminal. The black wire (marked horn and kill switch ground) completes the circuit.

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