DR650 Race Tech Gold Valve Installation Pictorial

Go to the Race Tech web site  http://www.racetech.com
click 'Search' and then click 'DVS valving search'
Enter bike and rider information and the 'internet access code'.
Your code is found on the first page of the installation instructions.

The online calculator will give you valving setup in the form of letter/number codes.
Print your results. The access code is only good for 5 minutes.
Refer to the Valving chart to see the shim stack data for the valving codes.

Our results called for:
low speed compression stack CL9
High speed compression stack CH1
Low speed rebound stack RL6
High speed rebound RH4
Bleed hole 1.9mm #48 drill bit (.076")

Click on any pic for a large version

Remove the shock from the bike
Clean it thoroughly and measure and record the length of the spring.
This will allow you to reinstall the spring close to the original sag if using the same spring.

Back off the spring preload nuts all the way.
Remove the cast aluminum collar, the steel spring seat and the spring.

Release the nitrogen by pressing the center pin of the shrader valve and remove the valve core.

Press or tap the reservoir cap down to expose the wire retaining ring
Remove the retaining ring (tip - push the ring down to get it out of it's groove)


Remove the bladder. I used a valve stem tool to get a firm enough grip to pull it out.

Remove the end cap. Tap it off evenly using a small drift against the cutouts
   

Remove the seal head.
Like the bladder cap depress the seal head to expose the retaining ring.
Remove the ring and slide out the shaft assembly

Pour out the old fluid, clean everything in solvent or kerosene (not gasoline!) and hot soapy water.

Remove the nut from the end of the shaft.
You must first carefully grind off only enough to remove the peened edge of the shaft that secures the nut.
     -- Read the warnings in the Race Tech instructions --
   

Disassemble the valving stack.
Use a bolt or wire to keep all the valve shims in the same orientation and order that came off the shaft.

Remove the old seal head and clean the shaft. Check for wear, scores, dings or burrs.
Lube the inside of the seal head and the shock shaft. Slide the seal head onto the shaft.

Build the compression valving stack according to your valving results and the Race Tech instructions.
Slide the compression base plate and the shims onto the shaft

Drill the bleed hole. Race Tech calls for a 1.9mm (.076") hole. Use a #48 drill bit.
If number drills are not available a 5/64" drill is only slightly larger at 0.78".

Install the valve body and complete the shim stacks.
I had to use an extra washer (provided) so the nut would clamp the shims and not bottom out on the shaft shoulder.

Clamp the shock body in a vise, install the compression adjuster and partially fill the reservoir with light (3w) shock fluid.
Slide the bladder into the reservoir. You want some fluid to overflow to guarantee there is no air trapped in the reservoir.

Push the bladder down far enough to install the retaining ring and then pull the bladder cap up to seat against the ring.
Fill the shock body nearly to the top and slide in the shaft assembly. Work it up and down to bleed out any air bubbles.
 

With the shaft near full extension push the seal head into the shock body. Again, you want fluid to overflow to be sure no air is
trapped in the shock. Push the seal head down into the shock body and install the retaining ring then tap the cap in place over the seal head.
You can use some compressed air in the bladder to make sure the bladder cap and seal head are firmly seated against their retaining rings.

Install the spring, spring seat and aluminum collar. If you are installing the same spring turn the spring preload adjusters down until your
spring length matches the measurement you made at the start. If you are installing a new spring set it about 1/2" to 3/4" longer and set the
sag after installation. Bleed the air out of the bladder and refill with 175psi of nitrogen.
Install the shock on the bike and go for a ride!